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You want me to do what? Put my dog in a crate? How cruel!

Cruel. NO. Done properly, crate training can be the answer to many problems faced by dogs and their owners. Dogs have a natural denning instinct and like to have a place where they sleep, rest, and just “hang out.” It is home. Providing your dog with a crate satisfies his desire to den. No one is going to step on his tail, trip over him, or pull on his ears. It is easier to teach small children to stay away from the dog while he is in his crate than to yell, “LEAVE THE DOG ALONE!”, every few minutes.

What is a crate?

A crate is an indoor kennel with a door. It is big enough for your dog to easily stand up, turn around, and lie down in. This “indoor kennel” is placed in the hub of your home (such as the living room or kitchen) during the day. At night, the crate should be moved to a corner of your bedroom, for the first week, and then moved back to the living room or kitchen. It is a place for your dog to relax in when no one is around to make sure Fido is staying out of trouble. It is your dog’s space in your house. It is his bed (or room) and sanctuary; it is his.

Why crate train?

Many people crate train their dog for the simple reason that the dog can do no wrong while he is in his crate. Your dog can’t wee on the rug, harass the postman, chew on the furniture, get into the bin, or eat your children’s hamster. He learns to relax and go to sleep while you are away.

In effect, it’s teaching him good habits, to SLEEP while his family is away. And while he sleeps, you can go shopping, visit friends, run errands, take in a movie, and not have to worry about what kind of shape the house is going to be in when you get home. You put your dog in his crate, shut the door and leave for a few hours, and know that when you return, it will be a happy reunion and not a one-sided yelling match with your dog cringing in the corner.

What about exercise? I thought a dog needed freedom to run around?

Before putting your dog in his crate each day before you go off for a couple of hours to run errands, you will have made sure he has had a good play/exercise session with you and has been given plenty of opportunity to eliminate. Remember, you won’t be putting your dog there forever. Two to five hours (depending on dogs age), while you go shopping etc., or overnight so you can sleep without having to worry about what your dog is doing is fine.

He will not have to spend every day of life in his crate. It’s just until he outgrows that puppy destructive stage, and until you teach him your household rules, and until he adjusts to living with you (especially if you have adopted a shelter dog). Your dog will actually enjoy being in a crate after you have taught him that it is his “room.”

Then why crate train at all? Why can’t I just leave my dog in the garden all the time?

Because dogs (like many other animals), by nature are sociable animals. They prefer the company of others (probably more so than humans do). They need to be in the house, even when you are not there or when you are sleeping and can’t be interacting with them. They need to feel that they are part of the family and that means being in the house, even though you may not be in the house. Depriving your dog of that feeling of “belonging” and of being a part of your family group can do as much psychological damage as locking a child in the closet for most of the day.

Behaviour problems such as digging, excessive barking, territorial guarding, chewing, and escaping WILL develop in a dog kept primarily outdoors. Crate training prevents destructive behaviours when you are not home or can’t supervise the dog directly when indoors. As a family companion and friend, your dog should be in the house with you; allow him to belong.

But won’t he get terribly bored being crated?

NO. Remember before putting him in the crate for any length of time you will make sure he has had an adequate play/exercise/training session, as well as the opportunity to eliminate. Very soon he will associate being in the crate as a cue to settle down and sleep. We forget that dogs need a lot of sleep and puppies even more, 5 to 8 hours of sleep (in total), during the day is quite normal for a puppy. So crate equals settle down and sleep. This is a lot better than leaving him out where he learns it is fun to chew on the door, get into the rubbish bin, or wee on the rug. (These are all normal behaviours that ANY dog will exhibit until he is taught how to live with humans.) Remember, a dog’s version of recreation while you are away often involves destroying your house or your garden. Sleep or appropriate chewing of a safe toy (Kongs are best), are the preferred behaviours.

Also, it is not as if he must remain in his crate for the rest of his life; it is just until he gets over the destructive period all dogs go through when they are young. (Or if it’s an older dog in a new home, just until you, the owner, feel safe leaving him alone in your house unconfined.)

Many dogs form habits, such as house soiling, that can be easily changed by crate training. If a dog has formed the habit of urinating or defecating in the house wherever and whenever he feels like it, then crate training can teach your dog to hold it until you provide him the opportunity to go out and to relieve himself. A normal, healthy dog will try very hard not to urinate or defecate in his crate. To do so would mean he would have to lay in it. Most dogs prefer to wait until you can return to let them out.

How many months/years should I use a crate in my dog’s lifetime?

It is highly recommended that any newly adopted adult dog be crate trained until he understands your household rules and has proven to be trustworthy when left alone for short time periods. For most newly acquired adult dogs, plan on using the crate regularly (whenever you are not home or can’t directly supervise the dog) until the dog reaches at least one to two years of age, or for a minimum of eight consecutive months if the dog is past this age. For puppies, plan on using the crate for a minimum of one to two years to assure the dog has matured and grown out of the adolescent/destructive phase that ALL dogs go through. The crate can be used for the rest of the dog’s life as well; the door tied open so the dog has the choice to use it or not.

What size crate should I get?

Your dog’s crate should be big enough for him to easily stand up, turn around, and lie down in. But not so big that he can sleep in one area and eliminate in another. If you have a large breed puppy then purchase the adult size crate and just make it smaller by adding a divider.

What is the best kind of crate to buy?

Plastic is probably the best, although metal crates have the advantage of folding up for storage, and metal crates allow for better air circulation. If you have a heavy coated dog, pick a crate with better air circulation as you can always cover the crate with a blanket if it is too cold. Remember though, that a dog will want his crate door left open, so he can go in and out as he pleases after he has outgrown the initial purpose of the crate. So the fact that metal crates can fold up when they are not in use may not be a good reason to purchase that kind of crate. Plastic is easier to clean and does not squeak and rattle like metal does when the dog moves around inside. Some brand names of plastic crates are: Vari-Kennel, Kennel Aire, Kennel Cab and Sky Kennel.

Once I have a crate where do I put it?

Your dog’s crate should be placed in the most often used room in the house during the day. The living room, the family room, the kitchen, wherever your family spends the most time. At night, (especially if you have a puppy), the crate should be moved to a corner of your bedroom. This helps the puppy sleep at night (being in the same room with his “new family”), helps the pup bond to the family, and helps with house-training (you will know when the pup needs to go outside). Once the pup has settled in to his new home and routine you can place his crate permanently in the living room or kitchen.

Okay! So now I have a crate how do I teach my dog that it is his room?

Try feeding your dog his meals with the door tied open the first week or two and intermittently hiding special goodies in the crate. You want your dog to keep going back and checking out the crate in hopes he may find something good in it.

Crate training an eight to twelve week old puppy.

Young puppies have very small bladders and cannot control them very well. They have to eliminate much more often than older puppies or adult dogs. To have a successful crate training program, follow the guidelines below.

Place a divider in the crate to allow the puppy only enough room to lie down and turn around. A old blanket or towel can be placed in the remainder of the crate as the puppy’s bed. Do not give your puppy an expensive blanket or pet bed; all puppies are destructive! Give them something old, so if they chew it up, you won’t mind.

At night, the crate should be located in your bedroom, so if the pup wakes up in the middle of the night, you can take him outside quickly. Most puppies that have had access to their crates from the beginning have no complaints. The first time they are shut in, they may whine a little, but ignore them and soon they will give up and go to sleep. A three-month-old puppy can usually spend an entire night without having to relieve himself, as long as he did his business right before going to bed and he has not had any water at least two hours before bedtime. A younger puppy will probably need one toilet break during the night. The puppy should be taken outside to eliminate, quietly praised when he does so, and then straight back to his crate with no fuss and no play.

The general rule of thumb is that during the day, a puppy can hold off elimination for as many hours as he is in months of age. For example, if you have a two-month-old puppy, then never make him spend more than two hours in the crate DURING THE DAY without a toilet break.

Do not let your puppy out of his crate when he is whining right after you have closed the door.

If you let your puppy out while he is whining, you will have taught him that whining will get him taken out of the crate. Always wait until your puppy is quiet before you let him out of his crate. Another solution for over-vocalization while in the crate is to cover the crate with a lightweight sheet or towel. Many dogs will settle down within minutes if they cannot see you.

When you first get up in the morning (or you have been gone longer than two hours) and your puppy is probably “loaded” and needs to go out immediately. Take him out right away. Also, if you have been gone during the day for any length of time, you want to take your young puppy out immediately upon your arrival home. As your puppy physically matures and gains bladder and bowel control, you can expect him to “hold it” longer.

**Do keep in mind that diet changes and medications can affect how long a dog can “hold it”. Digestive upsets can cause your dog to use the toilet much more often. Certain types of medications can increase water consumption, which, in future can cause a dog to eliminate much more often than normal. Always ask your veterinarian about the effects medications may have on your dog.**

Your puppy’s crate should only contain an old towel, and during the day a special chew item (stuffed Kong toys are best).

Crate training a puppy or adult dog.

Patience, persistence, and some small yummy treats your puppy or dog enjoys, are the only requirements to begin crate training. The first step is to let your puppy or dog investigate the crate with the door securely tied open. Throw his favourite toy or one of his treats just inside the lip of the crate and watch what happens. As soon as your puppy or dog goes in after the treat or toy, praise him enthusiastically with a happy tone of voice (do not try to shut the door at this point). Keep tossing the treats or toy into the crate so your puppy or dog has to go further in each time.

Remember to praise him as he goes IN the crate not as he comes OUT. Ignore him once he steps out of the crate. Keep this up until your puppy or dog quickly and easily goes into the crate whenever you toss his toy or treat into the very back of the crate. Next, try putting his food dish in the crate so if he wants to eat, he has to go in. DO NOT TRY TO CLOSE THE DOOR JUST YET. At this point you are still trying to build confidence in your puppy or dog that this indoor kennel is a good place to be. This procedure may take a few minutes or a few days. Throughout the day, hide treats in the crate when your puppy or dog is not watching. You want to teach your puppy or dog to investigate the crate often during the day.

The next step is to repeat the above but each time your puppy or dog goes in his crate, say a cue word such as “KENNEL,” in a happy tone of voice. It does not matter what words you say, the important point is you say the SAME words each time you play the crate game with him. For him to learn a verbal cue such as “KENNEL” may take up to 50 repetitions or more, so you may want to split this into several training sessions spread out over a couple of days.

Do not shut your puppy or dog in the crate until he is easily going in the crate without hesitation or fear. This may take a matter of hours OR may take several days. Go at your puppy’s/dog’s pace. Now send your dog in with his cue word, KENNEL and shut the door. BEFORE your dog has a chance to whine, toss a handful of treats to the BACK of the crate and then open the crate door. Ignore the dog if he comes out of the crate. Let the dog choose to go back in on his own and when he does toss another handful of treats to the BACK of the crate, shut the door, count to five and then open it. Repeat until the dog WON’T come out of the crate even when you open the door.

Now, practice opening and closing the door. With your dog already in the crate, open the door, and toss a small yummy treat to the back of the kennel, and quickly close the door again. Repeat this 10 times in a row so that your dog associates the door being opened with something good being placed in the back of the crate (and this will also teach your dog not to bolt out the kennel door). Then open the door and ignore the dog. If he chooses to go back in the kennel OR never comes out after a count of five, then toss another handful of treats to the BACK of the kennel and shut the door. Count to 10 this time and repeat the opening the door, give treat in back and shut door for 5 times in a row. Then open the door and ignore the dog. If he chooses to stay in the crate, toss a handful of treats in the back of the crate.

Gradually increase the time the door is closed, remembering to toss treats to the BACK of the crate when the dog is relaxed and quiet. Start moving about the house, remembering to come back often and push treats to the BACK of crate to reward your dog.

Make a game out of being in the crate. Toss a treat towards the back of the kennel, and hold on to the dog so he can’t get it thus increasing his desire to rush into the crate. Then, release the dog on cue such as “Kennel”, and let the dog leap into the crate. Hide treats and toys inside the crate (under a blanket or small towel) so the dog gets to search for fun objects.

If at any time, your dog willingly goes into his crate on his own, immediately rush over and put a handful of treats in the BACK of the kennel. A small treat container can be kept near the crate for this purpose.

You will know when the dog is ready to be left in the crate for longer time periods when he is both willing to explore the crate on his own and when he goes into the crate of his own accord, lays down and remains there. Practice the above five or six times a day, each time increasing the time your dog has to spend in his crate by five minutes. Try moving into a different room when he is in his crate. Be ready to ignore your dog if he is whining. By the time you reach 30 minutes, your dog can safely be left in his crate for a few hours. Leave him for an hour or two inside his crate while you watch a movie, read a book, or just chill out. Check in on him a few times to give praise and treats, but if he is asleep just quietly retreat. Just make sure he has been mentally and physically stimulated before being crated, and has eliminated first, and gets his special chew toy when he goes in his crate for longer periods.

My dog keeps whining/barking in the crate, what should I do?

Firstly ignore the whining, make no verbal, physical, or eye contact with your dog while he is whining, and do not let him out of the crate while he is whining. If you do this you are simply teaching your dog that whining/barking results in him being late out of the crate and this behaviour will increase.

So, try playing the crate game above with better rewards for staying IN the crate. Remember to ignore him when he comes out. You want to make being IN the crate more reinforcing than being outside the crate.

Try covering the crate with an old blanket or towel. Many dogs settle down in a few minutes if they cannot see you.

Give your dog something REALLY wonderful to chew on when he is in the crate, such as a chicken breast stuffed KONG. REMOVE it from him when he comes out of the crate.

You can also give your dog his regular meals in his crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops. Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.

Summary of tips for successful crate training:

• From day one make sure you create a positive association for your dog with being near or in the crate. Use treats, toys, games, verbal praise.

• Place the crate in the hub of your home. If you have a puppy it is a good idea to move the crate to a corner of your bedroom during the night for the first week, and then place it back in the kitchen or living room during the day. After the first week leave it in the kitchen or living room day and night.

• Make sure your dog has been mentally and physically stimulated; exercise, training, games, before being crated for longer periods

• Always make sure your dog has eliminated prior to being crated.

• When building up the amount of time your dogs spends in his crate, go slowly, work at your dogs pace. Make sure he is showing no signs of fear or anxiety before increasing time in the crate.

• Remember NOT to let your dog out when he is whining/barking. Try to wait until there is a moment of silence and then slip a treat to the BACK of the crate and then open the door.

• NEVER use the crate as punishment or as a time-out place for your dog. The crate is you dogs safe place, his bed, his secure haven.

• Do not allow children to disturb your dogs time in his crate, it is his space.

• Do not make the mistake of only crating your dog when you are going to leave him alone, if you do this, over time your dog will associate the crate with being left alone, and this could make him anxious which could lead to separation anxiety. Instead make sure you keep a balance of crating your dog when you are at home and when you are away from home.

• Keep comings and goings low key, don’t fuss your dog when you leave, and don’t greet him excitedly when you return.

• For safety always remove your dogs collar when he is to go in his crate, unless it is for a short period of time and you are there to supervise, for example you are playing crate games, or you dog is having a meal.

• If you have a puppy make sure that he only spends the appropriate amount of time in his crate during the day depending on age. Your puppy will quite happily sleep for up to 8 hours during the day, however you should not leave your puppy in his crate for 8 consecutive hours during the day. (In fact no dog you be left in a crate for 8 consecutive hours DURING THE DAY). Your puppy will not have control of his bladder/bowel until around 6 months of age. Instead build a routine of sleep time, typically three crate sessions of 2 hours works well. This gives you puppy regular toilet breaks, and supervised time for exploring his home. As your puppy gets older you can modify this to two crate sessions of 3 hours.