Hand Targeting For Fearful Dogs
Thursday, September 10, 2009 at 14:26 There is no doubt that owning and working with a fearful dog can be a challenge. If you own a fearful dog is it very important for you to educate yourself and learn as much as you can so that you can help your dog become less afraid and a more confident companion.
Certain breeds such as working and herding breeds have a natural predisposition to be more suspicious or cautious of new people, objects, events, etc. Therefore if you own such a breed you should make an extra effort to spend a lot of time on quality socialisation, quantity is important too, but by quality I mean that the early experiences your dog has should be positive. It is far more productive for your dog to meet 50 new people in a week and have each experience be good, than meet 100 new people in a week, but 50 of these meetings go bad.
Fear in dogs is often a mixture of unfortunate experiences coupled with a lack of early socialisation appropriate to the dogs temperament. Retraining will of course be a challenge, but fearful dogs don’t have to stay fearful forever.
Right from the outset you will have to have the right attitude and approach. It goes without saying that patience is a must, as is quick thinking, flexibility, as well as sensitive training. In addition setting clear, consistent, achievable goals is vital. Pre-train and pre-plan; be specific about how you want your dog to react in a given situation, and have a fallback.
Building confidence in a fearful dog is time consuming, so be prepared for the long journey. Your approach will need to be flexible, allow for and expect regression, learn form it, re assess, adapt, and move on. Don’t panic when things go wrong, mistakes will happen, but if you panic this will only confuse your dog. As your dog’s guide and handler you need to remain confident (act if necessary), shift plans, and continue, this approach will assure your dog.
Be flexible enough to know when you’ve tried to progress too quickly, and insightful enough to know what changes you need to make for your dog to be successful. These two qualities alone go a long way to making a good trainer.
Routine and predictability is very important when working with a fearful dog. Knowing that A leads to B, which leads to C, gives your dog confidence and a sense of control in the environment. This is key, especially if your dog not only reacts to events/cues etc, but is also apprehensive before the event.
Routine and structure around the home is important for all dogs, but even more so for fearful dogs. So again, be consistent in your rules and expectations, and where possible set a daily schedule for all activities such as feeding, walking, training, rest, play, etc. You can be more relaxed and flexible with house rules once your dog has gained a lot of confidence, but make quick judgement calls, if you think your dog’s confidence is slipping, re-apply some rules.
To see improvement in a relatively short period of time, break your goals down in to manageable steps.
For example let’s say your dog is afraid of strange men:
Clicker train your dog to play hand targeting games with a familiar male that he/she is not afraid of. Making a game out of what your dog is afraid of is a great way to build confidence. If you practise hand targeting enough it will become second nature to your dog.
- So to start have a familiar male sit sideways on a chair at a distance from your dog. Have him throw really high value tasty treats in various directions, allowing your dog to keep a comfortable distance.
- Then gradually change the variables so that eventually your dog is able to target the hand of the male for a click and treat.
- Then gradually add more variables; have the male standing, lying down, moving around, approaching. Each time you add a new variable be prepared to go back several steps, or right back to the beginning with the new variable.
- Don’t jump straight in and play the hand targeting game with strange males. You will have more success if you first work extensively teaching your dog to hand target your hands, and the hands of people he/she likes.
- Once your dog is readily in the game of hand targeting with familiar people/males, you will need to start over from the beginning with unfamiliar males.
Working steadily like this will really let you see improvements, which will in turn motivate both you and your dog.
If at any time your dog reacts in a way that you know means he/she is stressed, or if he/she is not able to take treats, or is unable to focus on you/respond to any cues, then simply take a break. Stay confident, don’t sweat it. Think about any changes you might need to make, make them, and move on.
Taking the time to teach your fearful dog hand targeting will be time well spent, and probably one of the most important training tools you will always have to hand (no pun intended), to help your dog overcome his/her fears. Over time you will find that because hand targeting creates such a positive association for your dog, he/she will be more willing to extend himself/herself, and be open to new experiences.
Hand targeting is wonderful, because it gives your dog something constructive to do, instead of being afraid.
Remember that owning and working with a fearful dog is a journey of learning and self discovery for both you and your canine companion. It can be frustrating at times, but with the right attitude it should be mostly rewarding, fun, and a great experience to be cherished.


Reader Comments (8)
This is an awesome exercise for fearful dogs! I just used it with a fearful client and it was a key tool in helping my own fearful guy.
Great topic, great post. Thanks!
Thanks for your comment Eric!
Targeting is definitely one of my favourites for dogs afraid of people and novel objects. I'm currently using this game with a lurcher, she thinks kids are scary monsters. She's still tentative but is focusing on the game now, listening for that "click".
It's all good.
We use hand targeting too, and it helps Lilly a TON. She loves being able to approach people (or NOT) on her own terms, and usually people think it's funny to have her pop over, target the offered hand, then race back to me for a treat.
We use POKE as our verbal cue, which I guess amuses some.
I've even heard of having fearful dogs target people's shoes, if there is any doubt they might nip. Better a shoe than a finger.
This is a useful and informative post. now i know what to do with one of my dogs. she tends to be frightened when i put a leash on her neck for a walk.
Hi Angela. This is a great method for reducing fearfulness, but I have a few critiques. I wish you'd made a strong distinction between the natural suspiciousness of the herding-guarding breeds and fearfulness, instead of conflating the two. A suspicious/aloof German Shepherd/Malinois/Rottweiler is one thing, a timid one is quite another! I also wish you'd said "not _all_ fearful dogs have to remain fearful forever", because sometimes the reason is genetic (often due to bad breeding) and in those cases there can sometimes be no expectation of real change. Also, it is important that owners of fearful dogs realise that, if their fearful dog is large it is dangerous; that they can never allow such a dog to play with children, whether unsupervised or not (it takes only a second for a fear biter to ruin a child's face - I know of an Irish Setter that did just that). Only people who are willing to be constantly and forever watchful should take on a fearful dog. Cheers, Joanna (in Hastings)
Hi Joanna, Thank you for your comment and the points you make. Very valid points but I feel you may have misunderstood the focus/subject of my post, and/or I wasn't clear in my writing.
My post was focused more on purely fearful/shy dogs, in my experience a fearful/shy dog does not automatically present with aggression, for this I would make a distinction and use the term fear aggression. I wasn't recommending that anyone should start hand targeting games with a dog displaying fear aggression. :)
Herding and working breeds are naturally more suspicious of new people, objects, events. So my point was that it would be beneficial for owners of such breeds to go the extra mile when socialising their working/herding breed pups so that they don't 'potentially' grow up to be fearful, I wasn't conflating the two. It was simply meant as an additional point.
Overall the post is about hand targeting for fearful/shy dogs where unfortunate experiences or lack of socialisation has lead them to be afraid of close interaction with people, or certain people, and would rather (for example), slink off into a corner and press up against the wall. As well as dogs that are afraid of certain surfaces, objects etc.
If I was writing about how to work with dogs displaying fear aggression, the whole approach would be very different :)
I am wondering what you can suggest for a dogs that are fearful of hands and men? One cross over dog I am working with are fearful of hands generally and we had to start her with stick targeting before progressing to hand targeting with the owners. Given that she is fearful of men (even the Grandpa who comes over infrequently), I am thinking of using targeting in the way you describe but am considering instead of doing toe or shoe targeting as hands for her are very scarey for her. What do you think?
Hi Donna,
Thank you for your comment.
When you say cross-over dog I'm assuming you mean the dog was previously trained using force/punitive based methods, am I assuming correctly?
The approach you should take will very much depend on the outcome of the dog's behavioural assessment and history. Has this been done?
If not then I would strongly recommend that this be done so that a clear behavioural picture develops, you really need to know how the dog might potentially react to a given stimulus, as well as knowing what level of stress threshold you're working with so that you can aim to work sub-threshold.
I hope this helps.
Angela